Oil-braised prawns

Use prawns with sharp points trimmed, backs opened and veins removed. Drain and pat dry. Slice scallions; divide ginger in half, slicing one half and mincing the other.

Lightly coat the pan with oil and gently cook peppercorns, scallions and ginger slices over low heat. When scallions are just pale golden, turn off heat and remove aromatics with a slotted spoon, leaving oil; do not let it smoke.

Arrange prawns in one layer over medium heat. Once shells change color on both sides, add minced ginger. Briefly remove from heat, slowly add wine, then water to mostly immerse the prawns, salt and sugar, leaving headroom for bubbling.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cover, opening as needed to check. Inspect the thickest prawn inside and remove only when flesh is pearly white and opaque. If liquid runs low first, add a little hot water rather than obeying a no-opening/no-top-up rule.

Plate cooked prawns and reduce their sauce over medium-low heat until it lightly coats a spoon, stirring and stopping before it becomes hard caramel. Spoon it evenly over the prawns.